|
Snow Lakes, Alpine
Lakes Wilderness |
|
Long drives, while sitting and fighting traffic, have never done anything for me unless it is for something resembling a trip to Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Bob applied for the application to the Enchantment area over six months ago. After waiting a month to hear if we could even get into the area, we finally got word the permit went through and we were legal. I was excited this day as Bob could not explain enough how beautiful the area was. So off we drove, stopping in Leavenworth to pick up the permit and to get some coffee. With nature on my mind and in my heart, I could have done without Leavenworth.
It was a rather cool morning with a bit of overcast as we geared up and romped up the valley. All the plants, wearing a fresh coat of dew, looked to be preparing for hibernation from the harsh winters that visit here. Snow lakes, our destination, were a couple of lakes used in conjunction with the local fish hatchery, situated at the base of Stuart Range. I was not sure why a controlled lake, almost man-made in essence, should have such a reputation.
Climbing up many switchbacks to gain elevation, we continued our path up the valley heading towards Nada Lake. Taking a break before crossing Snow Creek, admiring the large cedars that surrounded us, we were enjoying our time out here as we had planned. I found a small under glove a half mile back and wondered who's it could be since we have not seen any other hikers as of yet. We set off again, quickly meeting four other hikers. The glove was a nice young lady's as she was wearing her friends and was a bit worried. They said their thanks and we plodded on up the valley, crossing over the creek via a convenient footbridge.
While climbing the valley on the opposite side of the creek, we got our first glimpse of the range. "Snow level looks low", Bob said with a tad of uncertainty. I agreed that the level looked a bit out of place here this time of year as we were not that high in elevation. The weather in the Enchantments is quite an anomaly. Daytime temperatures can sore into the 80s and at night, you could get snow, lasting for days. Bob and I went this time of year to avoid the heat and also, to avoid the winter snows that will bury this place in a month or so.
Climbing higher, I reached Nada Lake and took a long break. I was incredulous at the sight of snow scattered at such a low elevation. I brought everything I needed for a dumping as my pack weighed much more than it could have. Bob arrived 30 minutes later, looking tired. Bob is from the old school days, brining everything with him in his 60 liter Dana. Although the thought of so much weight during the hike is rather unappealing to me, once a base camp is set up, Bob has all the luxuries of home making one feel rather envious.
We set off, climbing out from Nada Lake and over the aqueduct that controlled the outflow of Lower Snow Lake. Although I could not believe the perseverance of the tree in the path of the blasting water, swaying 20 feet from side to side, the spectacle made me feel I wasn't in the back country. I did not like this and moved on at a more rapid pace.
The full spectrum of the Stuart Range came into view as I snapped away with the camera, waiting for Bob to catch up. It was incredibly beautiful here, but I could not help to wonder how much snow was further up. I was walking in three inches of slush now, appreciating the fact that I had brought boots instead of the shoes I was planning on. Bob caught up and we strolled on together with the trail now flat. While chit-chatting, we ran into two hikers heading back. They told us their account of spending the last three days in the Enchantment area, huddled in a tent with three feet of snow that had fallen in the last two days. This worried me little as the gear I took could handle such a load, even though it was not what we had planned.
Scurrying through the dense, albeit short sub alpine forests, the slush was thick here as water was running everywhere. I really did not want to set up camp in this sloppy mess. We continued on, looking for a suitable campsite.
A couple minutes later, we arrived at Lower Snow Lake. Thoughts ran through my mind of where I wanted to camp as the sites here did not look too appealing. I had a sit in the sun, feeling it's healing warmth on my body. The Temple rose at Snow Lake's head and provided fine views.
We crossed the upper lake's drainage to the lower lake via man made concrete bridge only eight inches wide. Again, I did not feel especially remote as all these synthetic things, replacing nature, put me in a foul mood. I had read up on this hike and discovered that if you were lucky, the water flowing over this bridge may be only six inches deep. Apparently, this had been another record drought year as there was water several feet below it's surface. We headed further up the lake, almost to it's inlet and found a spot to set up.
I set up my tent under dripping trees, loaded with snow. I thought it wise not to set up directly on the snow as it would be significantly colder.
The next morning, I was no longer in the funk I was in from the prior day. We set off towards the Enchantment area with smiles abound. The trail, sometimes hidden under two feet of snow, was difficult to follow as was steep scrambles up granite. This did nothing to sour my mood as I cherished the scenery as well as practicing route finding. Higher I climbed as I gained altitude rapidly, constantly stopping to gawk at what was towering above me.
The Enchantments soon came into view as I sat down to look into the Snow Lake Drainage, admiring the stunning beauty. I waited for Bob 30 minutes until I got too cold and had to move on. I arrived at Lake Viviane, donning my down jacket before snacking on dried salami and Ritz crackers. It was beautiful here but the snow and ice made the trail quite precarious in places further on. I found a rock by the lake and sat behind it, sheltering myself as I ate. The temperature here, combined with the biting cold winds, were stinging any skin left unprotected. It was cold and got colder as the clouds moved in, blocking out the sun's warming rays. After 45 minutes, I was downright freezing. I got up and moved around, trying to gain some body heat as I waited Bob's arrival. Arriving, he had quite the story of getting lost as we promptly retreated back into the valley.
Back at camp, the sun was unobstructed, providing warm relief from the bitter cold we were exposed to just 1400 vertical feet higher. The Enchantment area was completely covered in clouds now as we could see the edge of it from our camp. My mood improved dramatically as did Bob's with the rising temperatures. We basked in the sun, laying out on any snow free area we could find, soaking up the rays. I took the opportunity to dry gear while moving my tent. My tent, still being rained on from melting snow on the tree limbs above it, was now floating in a puddle of water. It was still dry inside, but it taught me that drainage within a site selection is far more important than shelter from condensation. I set my tent up in the sun, on the snow. The area was flat and dry as it proved to be a great spot. The sandy soil below allowed no puddling as the water would simply be absorbed as the snow melted. As the evening came, so did worsening weather. We both retreated to our respective shelters, planning on tomorrow being the day of departure.
I slept fitfully for 12 hours straight in the mid 20s overnight temperatures. Breakfast eaten and gear packed, we thumped back down into the valley, taking breaks as often as we could. After returning to civilization, one person asked me if I was disappointed for going. I promptly replied with "NO!" I spent a few days in a beautiful area that obviously very few people get to see, mostly due to permit limitations, with a close friend. There is no amount of money that would make me regret the time I spent at Snow Lake with Bob, as the time with friends and family is precious to me and dwindles at an frightening rate.
|
